Sickles Market - Gourmet Club

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March 3, 2008 – March 16, 2008

Products of the Week – Cipollini, Garlic, Onions, and Eschallots

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It might seem strange to feature garlic, onions, cipollini, and eschallots in a gourmet newsletter but, if you think about it, it makes perfect sense. These four members of the Allium family are crucial ingredients in many gourmet dishes and their addition to everyday fare makes those dishes so much better. I have always considered garlic and onions as staples in my pantry. I had always used eschallots when called for in a recipe but had never really appreciated the role they play in that recipe until about five years ago when I was making a vinaigrette that called for eschallots. I didn’t have any so I substituted some chopped onion and tried it. It was okay but not what I wanted it to be, so I put it aside, went to the store, got some eschallots, and remade the vinaigrette. The distinctive flavor of the eschallots made all the difference in the taste. Ever since then, I have made it a rule to have eschallots in the kitchen, just the way I have garlic, onions, lemons, and parsley. I reach for them even more often than the garlic and onions. I have included cipollini with the others because they are such fun to use and they, too, have a distinctive flavor and are a wonderful addition to many meat dishes. Have fun with some of the following recipes – there should be something for everyone, including a new twist on Onion Soup!

RECIPES –
Maple-Glazed Sweet Potatoes with Cipollini Onions; Pan-Roasted Balsamic Onions; Roasted Cipollini Onions and Treviso; Caramelized Cipollini Onion Tartlets; Onions Baked with Rosemary and Cream; Pissaladière; Creamy Caramelized-Onion Soup; Lemon, Sesame, and Garlic Hummus; Pita Crisps with Spinach, Walnut, and Garlic Puree; Sixty-Clove Garlic Chicken; Soupe au Pistou; Three Shallot Vinaigrettes; Thyme, Shallot, and Lemon Marinade; Glazed Eschallots; Shallot Cherry Confit; Magret of Duck with Fig and Shallot Compote (While the Recipe Archives at www.sicklesmarket.com are under construction, ask at the office for copies of any that you would like to try.)

ONIONS –
The onion (Allium cepa) is related to the lily and is native to Central Asia, where it has grown for over 5,000 years. It is now grown throughout the world. Onions were cultivated in Mesopotamia and Egypt, where the pharaohs used them to pay the slaves who built the pyramids. Onions were also placed in the tombs for use in the Afterworld. Onions have been a major ingredient in recipes since the Middle Ages, particularly in Northern Europe. Christopher Columbus introduced the onion to the New World on his second voyage in 1493. Onions are used in almost every cuisine around the world. Sweet onions were introduced to this country at the turn of the century when a French soldier introduced Corsican onion seeds to the Walla Walla region of the Northwest. Eventually the seeds were introduced to other areas of the country, as well as other parts of the Western Hemisphere.

Onions are biennials which are grown as annuals. They are made up of fleshy layers of juicy whitish leaves that are attached at the root end and are covered by several layers of thin paper skin that develop as the onion matures. As the onion dries, the pigment in the skin will cause it to turn white, purple, yellow, brown, or red, depending upon the variety. Their shape and size also vary by variety. There are two categories of onion: spring/summer fresh bulb onions such as sweet onions that are available for a limited time and storage onions such as Spanish or Bermuda that are available year round. Green onions are referred to as scallions. They are simply young onions that have been harvested before a bulb forms on the root end. Both the growing climate and the variety determine the degree of sharpness of the onion. Raw onions can be very pungent when raw but sweeten with cooking. Spring/summer onions tend to be milder and juicier that the storage onions, which can more full flavored and often harsher. Storage onions, however, tend to be sweeter when cooked. Most onions are harvested in late summer and fall, cured for a short period, and then stored in warehouses until they are delivered to markets. The sharper the flavor of the onion, the longer it will keep because that compound acts as a preservative. Today, because of better storage techniques, most common varieties of onion are available year round.

Sweet onions are referred to as short day onions, because they are grown during the fall and winter months and harvested in early spring and summer. They are picked fresh and only cured for a short time so they do not store well. It is generally accepted that regular “storage” onions have from 3% to 5% sugar content while sweet onions have at least 6% sugar and can have sugar levels up to 15%. Regular onions have high levels of sulfur compounds that contain pryuvic acid, which causes the harsh flavor and tears and can lead to indigestion. Storage onions usually have pyruvic levels that are between 10% and 13%. Sweet onions are grown in soil with low sulfur levels and thus have pyruvic levels below 5%. In addition, sweet onions have higher moisture content because they are cured for a shorter time, which also dilutes the pyruvic level and increases the mildness.
Spanish – These onions are large and mild flavored. They can be up to four inches in diameter and are the most common onion in US markets.

Bermuda – These onions are mild flavored and come in red, yellow, and white, although the one we are most familiar with is the white Bermuda onion. They are good both raw and cooked.

Pearl – Pearl onions are pungent and store well. They get their small size because they are planted tightly together so they can’t grow big, and they are picked early. They have the pungency and flavor of a large onion.
Boiling – Boilers are thin-skinned small onions, about one inch in diameter. They are bigger than pearls but smaller than cooking onions and are usually cooked whole in stews.

Red – Red onions are fairly mild and juicy and are often eaten raw. They do not keep as long as Bermuda or Spanish onions.

Sweet – Sweet onions do not store well so each variety is only available for a few months but fortunately, there are many varieties available in U.S. markets throughout the year. Sweet onions have a mild, subtle aroma, a sweet, fruity flavor with a pleasant onion taste, and a crisp texture. They retain their texture, shape and flavor well when cooked and do not give off fumes when cut or cause tearing.

The OsoSweet onion comes from the foothills of the Andes Mountains in Chile and is available throughout the winter months. Maui sweet onions are grown on the slopes of the volcano Haleakala on the island of Maui in Hawaii. They have been grown by the Maui Growers Coop since 1943. They are available from mid-February to late November. Texas Sweets start appearing in the markets in March and are available until some time in June. The most famous of the sweet onions is the Vidalia onion which is grown in 20 specific counties in Georgia. They are available from April to late June, and if kept in controlled atmosphere storage are available until late fall. The Sweet Imperial is California’s version of the sweet onion. It is grown in the rich desert soil of Southern California’s Imperial Valley. It is available from late April through June. The Walla Walla Sweet onion is grown in Walla Walla County in southeastern Washington and part of Umatilla County in northeastern Oregon. They are available from mid-June to mid-August.

Health – Onions contain the flavonoid quercetin, which is an antioxidant. Antioxidants help delay the oxidative damage to cells and tissues in the body by eliminating free radicals. They inhibit low-density lipoprotein oxidation which can slow the progression of coronary heart disease and atherosclerosis. Studies have also shown that the more pungent onions (with the higher levels of pyruvic acid) exihibit strong anti-platelet activity. Platelet aggregation is associated with atherosclerosis, cardiovascular disease, heart attack, and stroke. In addition, studies have also shown that onion consumption is beneficial for bone density.

Serving suggestions –
With all these health benefits, it is a good thing that onions are so easy to incorporate into our diet. The sweet onions make it easy to eat them raw in salads, on sandwiches, and, if you are so inclined, out of hand the way you would eat an apple. It is hard to think of a savory recipe that can’t be improved with the addition of some onion. I add them to my scalloped potato recipe, to salsas, salads, many sauces, pasta dishes, in stir fry dishes, in quiche and strata and, of course in many omelets. I sauté or and caramelize them and use as a topping for meat. Add cooked pearl onions and a little bit of cream and butter to coked fresh peas for a pretty and tasty side dish. I serve creamed pearl onions every Thanksgiving.

I love caramelized onions, as a basis for French onion soup, to mound on top of a steak or pizza, tossed in pasta, or even stirred into mashed potatoes. You can use red, Bermuda, Spanish, or sweet onions. Simply peel and then slice the onions into ¼ inch thick slices and sauté them in melted butter for between 45 minutes and an hour over medium to medium-low heat, stirring frequently. If they start to stick, just add one to two tablespoons of water. I also sprinkle about a teaspoon of sugar over the onions when I start cooking them. The important thing to remember is to cook them slowly. After they are nicely caramelized, remove them from the heat and season with salt and freshly ground black pepper. You can also caramelize onions and then, in the same pan, add a bit of minced garlic and blanched green beans and a tablespoon or two of water and cook the beans in the caramelized onions until crisp-tender. Then season them with salt and pepper and enjoy.

CIPOLLINI –
Cipollini are a type of pearl onions that are grown from seeds that that originated in Italy. They have a distinctive shape that is much flatter than regular pearl onions and are more complex and mellow. In addition, they have an unusually rich and sweet flavor and a nice firm-tender texture.

Cipollini are delicious when braised, roasted, glazed, or caramelized. They make a nice garnish or side dish for grilled meat or roasts and are also a great addition to an antipasto platter.

GARLIC –
Garlic (Allium sativum) is a member of the lily family that is an annual bulbus herb. It is native to Central Asia and has been grown for over 5,000 years. It was prized by the Egyptians, who fed it to the slaves building the pyramids, believing it had the power to increase strength. The Greeks also prized garlic as a strength builder and Greek athletes ate garlic before competing and soldiers ate it before going into battle. Traders spread garlic to Asia and the Crusaders introduced it to Europe. Like onions, garlic is used by almost all the world’s cuisines.

The garlic bulb or head grows underground. Each head is made up of between 6 and 24 cloves. After harvesting is it is allowed to dry in the sun for several days. The head and cloves are encased in a paper-like whitish skin. There are over 30 varieties of garlic but the most common ones are the strongly flavored, white-skinned American garlic, Mexican garlic, and Italian garlic, both of which have mauve-colored skins and a somewhat milder flavor. There is also a bulb referred to as Elephant or Giant garlic that is not true garlic but a member of the leek family. Garlic can range in size from ½ to 1½ inches in length. Garlic is available year round. Garlic has often been referred to at the “stinking rose” because of its incredibly strong, pungent flavor that lingers on the breath and permeates perspiration. Chewing fresh parsley after eating raw garlic will lessen but not eliminate garlic’s lingering effects. At the same time, many people tolerate the effects because they so enjoy its pungent flavor and the wonderful effect it has on food. Garlic cloves are peeled before using, unless they are being roasted or baked.

Health – Studies by James North, a microbiologist at Brigham Young University, have shown that garlic does indeed help keep you healthy. It is a complex mixture of chemicals that have antiviral, antibacterial, anticancer, antiblood clotting, decongestive, cholesterol-reducing, and immunity boosting properties. He says that garlic can kill cold viruses and stop sore throats. It is more effective when eaten raw, since cooking can destroy some of these beneficial properties. Garlic is also a natural antioxidant. The compound released when garlic cloves are cut is allicin, a natural weapon against infection. It is thought that consuming as little as three cloves of raw garlic each week will make you healthier. (Accessed on 2-29-08 from Medical Myths at www.marthastewart.com)

Serving Suggestions – Three cloves of raw garlic sounds like a lot until you think about how often you reach for garlic when you prepare food. I add it to vinaigrettes and toss it (along with some good extra virgin olive oil) with pasta, I use it in marinades and veggie dips. Gremolata is a simple topping that is easy to make. Just combine a tablespoon of minced lemon zest, a tablespoon of minced garlic, and a tablespoon of minced parsley. Sprinkle it on soups, pasta, grilled fish or meat, or braised meat dishes for a burst of fresh flavor and a fantastic aroma. You can also make it using fresh mint, lime zest and garlic. Garlic Crostini are also easy to make and great for topping with your favorite spreads, dips, pâtés, and soft cheeses. Combine about ½ cup of olive oil, ½ tablespoon minced garlic, and ¼ teaspoon hot pepper flakes in a small saucepan and warm it over low heat for about 15 minutes (keep an eye on it so the garlic doesn’t brown – it will taste bitter). Then remove it from the heat and brush it on both sides of on slices from a baguette. Toast the Crostini in a 350º oven until they just begin to brown (about 8 to 10 minutes). Let them cool to room temperature before serving.

I love a pungent garlic vinaigrette for salads that are made with some of the stronger flavored greens. You will need a mortar. Coarsely chop a clove of garlic and put it in a mortar with about ½ teaspoon of sea salt. Pound it until it is smooth. Scrape it into a bowl and then stir in about 2 tablespoons of red wine vinegar and a teaspoon of balsamic vinegar. Whisk in between 6 and 8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil (to taste) and season with freshly ground black pepper.

Roasting heads of garlic is easy and mellows the pungency of raw garlic and also softens its texture. Simply take a head of garlic and remove the outermost papery layers. Then cut the top off the head, leaving the tops of the individual cloves exposed. Next, drizzle the exposed cloves with some good olive oil and wrap the head in aluminum foil. Bake it at 400ºF. until soft, usually about an hour. Let it cool slightly before serving. Roasted garlic is delicious spread on slices of crusty bread or mixed into mashed potatoes or used in a dip or smeared on pizza (especially good with caramelized onions!). If you are not going to use all the garlic right away, you can store it. Just squeeze the garlic cloves into an airtight container and pour just enough olive oil over it to cover the roasted garlic cloves. It will keep in the refrigerator for up to a week. Ways to use roasted garlic are only limited by your imagination.

Garlic mayonnaise or Aoli is another of my favorite ways to enjoy the wonderful flavor of garlic. Serve it with ratatouille or vegetables tians, with grilled vegetables. Toss it with hot white beans and chick-peas or spread it on grilled bread topped with grilled vegetables or slices of juicy ripe tomatoes. You can also stir it into lots of soups or toss it with pasta. To make one cup, take 4 to 8 cloves of garlic and some coarse salt and pound it in a mortar until it is a smooth puree. Add one egg yolk and whisk it until it is thick. Then add peanut oil, a drop at a time until the sauce begins to get thick. Then you can continue adding the oil in a steady stream (for a total of ¾ cup). Once the oil is nicely blended in, stir in the juice of one lemon and then add a teaspoon or two of good extra virgin olive oil, until it tastes good and the texture is right. If it is too thick, add hot water by the tablespoon full to thin it so it is thick but still pourable. Refrigerate it, covered, until you are ready to use it.

ESCHALLOTS –
Eschallots (Allium cepa, Aggregatum Group) are members of the onion family. Unlike onions, however, true eschallots are grown from bulbs and grow in clusters that are attached at the base or root end of the shallot. It is said the eschallots originated in the Near East and that the name is derived from an ancient Palestinian port. The Greek writer Theophrastus wrote about eschallots in 300 B.C. and Pliny discoursed on them in the 1st century A.D. Eventually eschallots were introduced to Europe, where they became particularly popular in France. Eschallots were also introduced to India an Asia early on by traders and they play a large role in Asian cooking as well. Today, most of the eschallots sold in the U.S. are imported from France.

Eschallots are less pungent than garlic and more aromatic than onions, with a distinct, sweet, intense, and complex flavor, which make them so highly prized by chefs. Cooked eschallots are also more easily digested than cooked onions. The most common variety is the gray shallot which is small and slender with grayish skin and a purple-colored head and firm and piquant flesh. The Jersey shallot (named after the Isle of Jersey) is short and round with a pinker color skin and a veiny and milder tasting flesh. During certain times of the year, a special variety of shallot is available called cuisse de poulet. They are large than other shallot varieties, have a copper-colored skin, and are shaped more like a torpedo than the common shallot.

Serving suggestions – Eschallots can be eaten raw or cooked. As I mentioned above, they are a wonderful addition to vinaigrette. They are used to season buerre blanc and are an important ingredient in béarnaise sauce and in red and white wine sauces. They pair beautifully with tarragon. Sometimes I put some coarsely chopped shallot, lemon halves, and fresh tarragon in the cavity of a roasting chicken before cooking. It is delicious! In the gourmet newsletter on San Marzano Tomatoes and tomato paste that was sent out earlier this year, I included a recipe for red wine sauce that features eschallots. It is my favorite sauce to serve with beef tenderloin but it is delicious with any kind of beef - steaks or roasts. I add either raw or cooked chopped or sliced eschallots to many dishes from soups to sauces and vegetables.
The following carrot dish is great for a party and makes enough to serve eight. After cooking two pounds of mini carrots, I melt about half a stick of unsalted butter in a skillet over medium-high heat and add sliced eschallots and cook them until they begin to brown, about 2 to 3 minutes. I then stir in about a ¼ cup of honey, 2 tablespoons of Dijon mustard, and season with coarse sea salt. Then I add the carrots again, cooking until they are hot.

During fresh corn season, I sometimes make creamed corn. I remove the kernels from the ears, taking care not to remove only about 2/3 of the kernel. I then go back with the blunt edge of the knife and force out the scrapings that are left on the ear and put them in a different bowl. Then I melt some butter in a skillet and add finely diced eschallots and cook them briefly over medium heat (a couple of minutes). I then add the corn kernels and raise the heat and cook the corn for about two minutes. Then add the scrapings and some heavy cream and cook for about another minute. After removing the corn from the heat I season it with salt and freshly ground pepper and stir in a small amount of either chopped parsley, basil, or dill.

Shallot confit and glazed eschallots are a delicious addition to grilled beef or fish, especially tuna. You can make a simple shallot compote by combining sliced eschallots in a saucepan with red wine and ruby port (half as much port as wine). Simmer the eschallots until they are soft and most of the liquid has evaporated (20 to 40 minutes). Serve it with either the tuna or a grilled steak. They are also good on top of garlic toast as an appetizer. I also love to add them (along with some tarragon) when I am sautéing scallops in butter and white wine.

I also have been known to substitute raw chopped eschallots for onions in potato salad and lots of other recipes calling for raw onions and often also cooked onions. You will be amazed at how good the dish becomes.

HOW TO BUY AND STORE –
When buying any of these members of the onion family, look for firm, plump bulbs and onions that are heavy for their size. Avoid any that are bruised, have cuts, signs of mold, or green sprouts showing (all signs that they are old). Garlic, onions, Cipollini, and eschallots will keep for several weeks (or more) if they are stored in a cool, dark place with air circulating around them. Do not store any of them near potatoes, which give off moisture that will cause the onions to deteriorate faster.

If you try some of my suggestions for cooking with garlic, onions, Cipollini, and eschallots, you will find that you won’t have to worry about length of storage. You will be reaching for one of these gourmet items of the week at every meal. Just be sure you don’t run out!

Happy eating,

Sallie Smith


RESOURCES –

The Visual Food Encyclopedia, Macmillan, NY, 1996.
Green, Aliza. Field Guide to Produce. Quirk Books, Philadelphia, 2004.
Schneider, Elizabeth. Vegetables from Amaranth to Zucchini. William Morrow,
NY, 2001.
www.sweetonionsource.com