Sickles Market - Gourmet Club

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January 14, 2008 – January 27, 2008

Products of the Week – Special Mountain Cheeses of France and Switzerland

PLEASE REMEMBER TO GIVE THE CASHIER YOUR GOURMET CLUB CARD AT THE BEGINNING OF YOUR ORDER!

A.O.C. Fourme du Cantal, Cave Aged Gruyère Reserve, A.O.C. Gruyère de Comté, and A.O.C. Beaufort d’Alpage will be 25% off for Gourmet Club members for the next two weeks.

Over the holidays, I had some people over and, of course, had a selection of cheeses to offer them. Half the fun of serving cheese is deciding what combination of cheeses I want to serve, depending on who is coming, the season, the time of day, and what else I will be serving. I also tend to consider what cheeses I would enjoy as “left overs.” I found myself thinking a lot about the mountain cheeses I first wrote about in 2005 and how much I love to eat them during the cold winter months. All four cheeses I am writing about are phenomenal eating cheeses as well as great melting cheeses and I knew that I had to include one for my party. I had a really nice cave aged gruyère that was nutty and fruity and absolutely wonderful. Unfortunately, there wasn’t any left from the party so I had to buy more to satisfy my craving for a grilled cheese sandwich on crusty whole grain bread and a slathering of Dijon mustard. Then I needed to get still more for potatoes au gratin to go with our family’s traditional ham on New Year’s Day. Fondue is back in style and I have included a delicious recipe for traditional cheese fondue to serve to friends or family. My kids have always loved sitting around a table talking, laughing, and eating from a communal pot of cheese fondue. It is a perfect meal for a cold snowy evening.

Most of us, when we think of “Swiss cheese”, think of deli, slicing Swiss with large holes. The better slicing Swiss cheeses have a somewhat nutty flavor that gives the taster just a hint of the amazing flavor of true A.O.C. (appellation d’origine contrôlée) mountain cheeses from France and Switzerland. The themes that unite all the cheeses included this week are the mountains that dominate Switzerland and the eastern part of France and the process for making the cheeses. The milk used to produce these cheeses comes from cows that graze in the high mountain pastures on incredibly sweet grasses, herbs, and flowers. The resulting milk is rich, sweet, and full of the flavor of those grasses and flowers. The flavors also permeate the finished products – a group of phenomenal cheeses, perfect for both eating and cooking. These cheeses have smooth pastes that melt beautifully for grilled cheese sandwiches, gratins, and, of course, fondue. The nice thing about featuring all these cheeses at the same time is that you can try them all and compare them to find your personal favorites. Have fun tasting!

RECIPES

• Gratinee Lyonnaise (Lyon-style Onion Soup)

• Panade of Leeks and Mixed Greens with Cantal Cheese

• Salade Vigneronne

• Le Nemrod’s Auvergne-style Salad

• Potato Gratin

• Gratin of Leeks with Beaufort Cheese

• Aligot

• Walnut and Rye Bread with Cheese, Pears, and Honeyed Figs

• Gougères (Gruyère Cheese Puffs)

 MOUNTAIN CHEESES –

Traditionally the mountain cheeses were made from the milk of cows who grazed on the grasses of the high alpine meadows during the spring and summer months. Each family depended on those cheeses as a major source of food for the following winter. Over time the families found that large wheels of cheese were easier than small ones to bring down the mountain in autumn and kept better through the winter months. Each day the milk from the morning and the evening milkings was gathered and emptied into a vat where the milk was heated and rennet was added. The milk was kept at a steady temperature until it curdled. Then the curds were cut into tiny pieces to release the whey. As the whey drained off, the curds were poured into molds and pressed to extract more whey. The molds were pressed several more times (depending on the specific cheese). Then the molds were removed and the wheels moved to a storage room where they were kept at a constant temperature and humidity for several months. During this time the wheels were turned and the rinds were washed with brine at regular intervals. Heating the milk and the low moisture content of the finished cheese were the keys to the long life of the cheeses. The production of each specific type of cheese varied slightly but the basic process was the same for all of them then as it is today. Today, all four cheeses are ‘name controlled’ by either Switzerland or France and the entire production, from the type of cow, and their food and habitat, to the actual cheese making process is clearly spelled out and must be followed rigidly.

The mountainous regions are made up of many small farmers who maintain their own herds of cows and do their own milking but do not have enough milk to make the large wheels of cheese so they have banded together to form small dairies, called fruitières, in their villages that actually make the cheese. Often these dairies only make a small number of cheeses a day. Sometimes the fruitières also age the wheels of cheese and then sell the wheels to exporters and retailers and share the profits. Other times the cheese is sold to companies, called affineurs, who take responsibility for aging the cheese and then selling it.

FOURME DU CANTAL –

Cantal comes from the Auvergne region of France in the volcanic Massif Central, a rugged mountainous area that is one of the most rural areas of France. It is named for the Cantal Mountains located in the southeastern part of the region. A.O.C. Cantal can be called either Fourme du Cantal (FORM-doo-kahn-TAHL) or Cantal de Salers (kahn-TAHL-duh-sah-LAIR). Another A.O.C. cheese, Fourme du Salers is almost identical. Both are among France’s oldest cheeses. The cheese has basically the same form today as it did when the Roman Legions discovered it and when Pliny the Elder wrote about it 2,000 years ago. Originally this cheese was made only in the summer months in burons (stone huts) high in the mountains by the cowman and his helper with milk obtained from cows grazing on the grasses, flowers, and herbs in the high mountain meadows. Cantal has always been made from the milk of a specific breed of cows called Salers. Cantal that is made by hand using raw milk is known as Cantal fermier and resembles rustic farmhouse cheddars. Today most A.O.C. Cantal is commercially produced using pasteurized milk and is known as Cantal laitier. The cheese making process follows the general description outlined above and is aged for between one to ten months. During this time the cheese is turned frequently and the rind is brushed weekly. Cantal is a semi-firm pressed cheese with a natural, inedible brushed rind.

Cantal comes in tall cylindrical drums that are 18 inches high, 20 inches in diameter, and weigh about 80 pounds. Each drum is imprinted with its name and the A.O.C. designation. Cantal is available in three stages: Cantal jeune, Cantal entre-deux, and Cantal vieux. Cantal jeune is aged for one to two months. Its rind is pale, almost white, and its straw colored paste is moist, smooth, and firm. Cantal jeune has a milky aroma and a mild, buttery taste. Cantal that has been allowed to mature for three to six months is called Cantal entre-deux. It still has a milky aroma and buttery flavor but the flavor is now stronger and slightly nutty. The rind has become darker brown and the paste is firmer, with an almost crumbly texture. Cantal vieux has been aged for more than ten months and has acquired a strong tangy flavor. The paste is firmer and somewhat crumbly and the rind is thicker and darker. Cantal is a rustic, straightforward, simple country cheese that is delicious for eating at all three stages, both by itself or as a part of other dishes. One classic recipe that uses Cantal is aligot, which is simply mashed potatoes with butter, cream and quantities of shredded Cantal stirred into the mixture until is melts (see the recipe section). Sickles sells a young Cantal entre-deux that is delightful, with its fresh aroma, creamy texture and buttery taste.

SWISS GRUYRE –

Gruyère (grew-YAIR or gree-AIR) is an unpasteurized, firm, pressed, cooked curd cow’s milk cheese with a brushed, inedible rind that comes from the south eastern part of Switzerland. It is named after the Swiss village of Gruyère in the canton of Fribourg where it has been made in the same way for over 1,000 years. Today Gruyère is made in the cantons of Fribourg, Vaud, Neuchatel and Jura and part of the canton of Bern. It is one of Switzerland’s name controlled cheeses. It takes about 106 gallons of milk to make one wheel weighing about 60 pounds.

The making of Gruyère follows the same basic process as the other mountain cheeses being discussed, with the same emphasis on pressing the curd filled molds to remove as much whey as possible and turning them gently regular intervals. This process contributes to the cheese’s firm, dense texture. After being removed from the molds, the wheels of cheese are placed in a brine bath for several days before being transferred to a high humidity aging room. Here the wheels are turned and rubbed with a damp cloth at weekly intervals for eight to ten months. At this time, representatives from Emmi, a large Swiss dairy company, inspect the wheels and select the best ones for further ripening in their cool, high humidity natural caves near Lucerne. Emmi’s Cave-aged Gruyère Reserve (aged over one year) is the one Sickles carries. The extra aging gives this cheese a richer, deeper, more complex flavor that is both nutty and sweet and slightly sharp. This cave-aged Gruyère is my absolute favorite mountain cheese!

Gruyère is made in large wheels weighing between 65 and 85 pounds. Each wheel is about 4 inches thick and 38 inches in diameter. The sides of the wheel are slightly convex. The rind is crusty, brown, and pebbled. The cheese has a fruity aroma. The interior paste is light straw colored, with the color varying according to the season and the feed of the cows. Gruyère used to have pea-sized holes in the paste but Switzerland’s strict monitoring of the cheese-making process and incredibly hygienic environments do not allow any of the gas producing bacteria that made the holes to survive. The younger Gruyère is mild tasting, a little salty and somewhat fruity with a smooth but firm texture. The longer aged cheeses have a paste that melts on the tongue and releases that complex range of fruity flavors and distinct nuttiness.

GRUYÈRE DE COMTÉ –

Gruyère de Comté (grew-YAIR or gree-AIR-duh-cone-TAY) comes from the mountainous Franche-Comté region of France next to Switzerland, more specifically from the Jura Massif, which includes the Jura, part of the Doubs, and a small part of the Ain. The French referred to their Gruyère as Comté to distinguish it from the Gruyère of Switzerland. It, too, is an unpasteurized, firm, pressed, cooked curd cow’s milk cheese with a natural, inedible, brushed rind. This cheese also has a very long history. Records indicate that it has been produced since the time of Charlemagne and that it was being exported to Italy as far back as the 13th century. In 1958 Comté was one of the first French cheeses to be awarded the A.O.C. designation specifying, protecting, and guaranteeing its production area, methods, and high quality. Only milk from Montbéliarde cows can be used to make Comté. It takes approximately 130 gallons of milk to make one 80 pound wheel of cheese. The wheels must be aged a minimum of 4 months and can be aged up to 18 to 24 months during which time the wheels are regularly turned and the rinds rubbed with salt water. After aging, the wheels are assessed by experts who judge the product on both taste and appearance. The cheeses must earn over 12 points (out of 20) before they can bear the name Comté. Wheels receiving points between 12 and 15 points receive a brown stripe around their circumference while those receiving over 15 points receive a green stripe. The Comté that Sickles carries has been aged by M. Jean-Charles Arnaud. The wheels are aged in the cold, humid stone cellars of Fort des Rousses, an old decommissioned Napoleonic fort. M. Arnaud’s cheese, which is usually aged about 15 months, regularly earns about 18 points. It is truly an exceptional cheese.

Comté comes in large, flat wheels that are about 4 inches thick and 3 feet in diameter. The wheels weigh about 80 pounds. Often the paste will contain pea size holes or eyes. The flavor and aroma of Comt will vary and is dependent upon the precise area in which it was made, the season in which it was made, the individual cheesemaker, the specific characteristics of the cellar in which it was aged and the length of time it was aged. A wheel of young Comté might have an aroma of fresh hazelnuts or nutmeg or even the delicate scent of buttery mashed potatoes while Comté that has been aged longer might have a fruity aroma. Summer Comté (cheese made during the summer months with milk from cows grazing on green, sweet grass and flowers) will have paste that is a rich yellow and an aroma of the green pastures while winter Comté (made with milk from cows fed on hay) will have the delicate aroma of that hay and a more ivory colored paste. Some wheels taste saltier that others. Younger wheels will taste milky and be mild while older wheels will have a rich, nutty, fruitier and more flowery taste.

BEAUFORT –

Beaufort (bo-FORE) is an unpasteurized, firm, pressed, cooked curd, cow’s milk cheese with a natural, inedible, brushed rind. It has been made in the Savoie region of France since before the period when the Roman Legions occupied France (over 2000 years ago). In 1968 Beaufort was designated an A.O.C. cheese. Some of the requirements include that the cheese must be made from the milk of Tarentaise cows grazing at high altitudes in the Beaufortain, Tarentaise, Maurienne and part of the Val d’Arly regions of the Savoie. Beaufort should age a minimum of 4 to 6 months (and up to 12 months) in cool mountain cellars that maintain an even temperature. During this period the wheels are turned and the rinds rubbed and salted at least two times a week. There are three versions of A.O.C. Beaufort, each with their own specific requirements. The production of Beaufort follows all the general guidelines established by its A.O.C. status. Beaufort dté (summer) must be made from the milk produced from June to September and will be richer and more flavorful than plain Beaufort. Beaufort d’Alpage (pasture) may only be made from summer milk that comes from cows in a single herd that graze in mountain pastures above 1500 meters altitude. Beaufort d’Alpage is a seasonal cheese and only available in the winter and early spring months. Sickles Market sells Beaufort d’Alpage, the best of the best – truly the “prince of Gruyères.” It is only available seasonally so buy it and enjoy it when you can!

Wheels of Beaufort are about 8 inches thick and 36 inches in diameter and weigh about 80 pounds. It takes about 130 gallons of milk to make one wheel of cheese. Beaufort d’Alpage has a higher butterfat content and is creamier than the other mountain cheeses. Unlike the other cheeses, which occasionally have small holes, Beaufort does not have any holes. During the maturation process, the smooth rind turns reddish brown in color. The paste is smooth and very creamy and ranges from ivory to pale yellow in color. Beaufort d’Alpage has an aroma full of the smell of the mountain meadows in summer – grassy, flowery, and sweet. The taste is ambrosial; buttery, sweet, fruity, nutty, and a little salty.

SERVING SUGGESTIONS –

Cantal, Swiss Gruyère, Gruyère de Comté, and Beaufort are all flavorful, smooth cheeses that are delicious for snacking, lunch or dessert paired with apples, pears, grapes and many types of nuts, especially walnuts. They go well cubed in salads of mixed greens or spicy greens (such as endive, frisée and watercress) tossed in walnut oil vinaigrette. The nutty flavor of the cheese complements the nutty flavor of the vinaigrette. The saltier cheeses are perfect served with crusty bread and saucisson.

Because these mountain cheeses melt so beautifully, they are perfect for omelets which, when served with a green salad and a crusty baguette, make a simple, satisfying yet elegant meal. Simply grate your favorite of the mountain cheese and use it as the filling. You can toss in some freshly chopped parsley as well and don’t forget the freshly ground pepper. It is simple and delicious. The well known omelette à la savoyarde is made with shredded Beaufort and chervil.

These cheeses are also perfect for grilling and toasting. Think about using 7 grain bread or a hearty rye bread for your sandwich. You can add thinly sliced ham, tomatoes, or bacon or more than one of those ingredients for a memorable, easy meal. Generally the extras with the boldest flavors work better while mild flavored additions tend to get lost in the rich flavors of these cheeses. Another tasty addition is a smear of Dijon mustard on the bread before the cheese is added. The sweet nuttiness of the cheese contrasts wonderfully with the bite of the mustard and the creamy, oozy texture of the cheese contrasts so well with the crunch of toasted or “grilled ‘til its crisp” bread. (I think I just decided on tonight’s dinner!)

Gratins are dishes that are topped with shredded cheese and put in the oven or broiler until brown and crispy (see the gratin recipes listed above). Potatoes au gratin are a classic, but cauliflower, grilled veggies, broccoli, zucchini, Swiss chard, onions (alone or with other veggies), and lots of other options will all pair well with your favorite mountain cheese.

One of the most obvious choices for any of these cheeses, alone or in combination, is cheese fondue. Fondue is a traditional, simple, hearty mountain dish that is melted in a pot and served with cubes of bread to dip in the pot. You can also use any veggies you like to dip (lightly steamed or parboiled so they still are firm enough to hold up in the cheese mixture). Fondue is a fun communal meal that features the great tastes of one or more of these wonderful, flavorful mountain cheeses!

Cheese and wine are a natural pairing. Each cheese featured here has slightly different flavor and aroma characteristics that complement or contrast with certain wines. Cantal goes well with any light, fruity red or white wines and also with Beaujolais and Côte d’Auvergne. Pair Gruyère with red or white Burgundies, Rhône reds such as Côte Rôtie and Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, Bandol and Alsatian reds and whites. Comté goes well with big red wines such as Côtes-du-Rhône, Châteauneuf-du-Pâpe, red Burgundies, and fruity reds such as Beaujolias. Beaufort is great with all big red wines and will bring out the best in simple reds such as Côtes-du-Rhône and everyday Bordeaux.

Happy Eating,

Sallie Smith

BOOKS AND WEBSITES –

Jenkins, Steven. Cheese Primer. Workman Publishing, New York, 1996.

Weinzweig, Ari. Zingerman’s Guide to Good Eating. Houghton Mifflin Co. New
York, 2003.

www.teddingtoncheese.co.uk
http://signonsandiego.printthis.clickability.com
www.saveur.com
www.conus.fr
www.bienmanger.com
www.waitrose.com
www.comte.com
www.cheese-france.com
www.serrechevalier.org
www.sfgate.com
www.gruyere.com
www.cheese.com
www.emmi-tradition.ch
www.lesarpers.com